Here's what he said on his website about this Bronica lens - 'The Zenzanon-S 150mm /3.5 is. As many of you know, the godfather/founder of bokeh is Mike Johnson (aka 'The Online Photographer'). Wisconsin (United States) Item Description. Zenza Bronica Zenzanon-S 150mm /3.5 bokeh lens & new adapter.
Pre owned Bronica RF645 with a 65mm f4 lens and flash for sale, only 1,299.00 inc 6 months shop warranty. Since people come to this site as much for info about the Mamiya 7 as for largeBRONICA RF645 + 65mm f4 LENS. These models included: Bronica Z (Zen-za), debuted March 1959 at the Philadelphia Camera Show and renamed Bronica D (Deluxe) in December 1959 with slight. Comley Cameras updated their cover photo.Mamiya 7 II 6x7 Medium Format RangefinderFrom its start, Bronica introduced a number of 6x6 cm medium-format SLR cameras with focal plane shutter, which used Nikkor lenses from Nikon, until this line was discontinued with the introduction of the successor Bronica SQ-series.
Bronica Rf645 65Mm Lens Review Manual Mode Or
Very compact, with a bright viewfinder and easy rangefinder focusing, this camera can be used in full manual mode or with aperture-priority autoexposure.Feb 2012: I've let the Mamiya 7 sit in its bag for about the past 4 or 5 years while I made an earnest (and expensive!) attempt to wrap my head around digital capture and workflow. You can Check Price The Bronica RF645 Rangefinder Camera Set with 65mm Lens By Click Button Below.Format info, I'll try to keep this info updated as much as possible.Bronica RF645 with Zenzanon-RF 65mm f4 The Bronica RF645 is a medium format rangefinder camera that shoots 6x4.5cm images on 120 rollfilm. This The Bronica RF645 Rangefinder Camera Set with 65mm Lens is make for you and make a happy. You can Read Review for Customer and Get a Good Product.
I'm sending my Mamiya 7ii kit and my 4x5 off to Precision Camera Works for a complete CLA on everything. So, I'm going to sell my Nikon D3 and maybe the Leice M8. Fairly easy proof printing) I've come to the conclusion it isn't really that satisfying for me.
Hopefully the observations that follow will be helpfulI've found it to be just about perfect for all of the hand-held photographyI do. I've had mine since the fall of 2001 and have exposed a fairNumber of rolls with it. Hopefully, I'll have some new pictures to put up on Flickr before too long.The Mamiya 7II is a 6x7 medium format (56mm x 69mm image size) rangefinder camera system with6 available lenses.
There is much better info on the camera there compared to the US site, even though Mamiya America Corp. ExposureSee cool viewfinder pix at the Mamiya UK site. It is easy to use, lacking the oversupply of electronic gizmos that detract, in my opinion, from the essential task of taking photographs. The controls are laid out well, attesting to the simplicity of its design. You can tell that everything is put together solidly by just holding the camera in your hand. Also, it is light enough to carry easily (it's 2.8 lbs w/80mm lensThe Mamiya 7ii has a very nice, solid feel in your hand.
It's an unusual place for a cable release, but it works well as it is out of the way of the exposure controls. Since most of my exposures are tripod mounted, though, I use the manual shutter speed setting along with the appropriate aperture setting derived by using my handheld spot meter.The camera accepts a standard cable release in the lower front left corner of the body. This mode works very well for most handheld photography. With that, you aim the metering patch in the viewfinder (it's not marked, but is a bit below the center rangefinder square) at an appropriate spot in the scene being photographed, you half-press the shutter button to lock the meter at that reading, then recompose while keeping the button half-pressed, and trip the shutter when you have everything set. The "AEL" (auto-exposure locking) mode is likely the most often used automatic mode. There are two automatic exposure modes.
I still keep some 220 around for those times I might be shooting in higher volumes. I tend to prefer 120 after having standardized on 220 Tri-X for a while, since the shorter roll usually means unexposed film sits in the camera for shorter periods of time until I can finish it off. While this is true, the Mamiya 7 is also capable of handling 220 roll film with just a twist of the pressure plate.
No extra long lensesThose coming from SLR camera systems might find it odd that the longest useful lens for this camera is 150mm, or about the same as a 75mm on a 35mm camera. There are several things to consider before deciding to buy a rangefinder camera. I had never owned a rangefinder prior to the '7', but took the plunge anyway. RangefindersI think that people find the fact that the 7II is a rangefinder camera to be the biggest hurdle, or biggest unknown, when deciding whether to commit to it, and for good reason. Not much you can do but work around it.
It would be nice if Mamiya did that, too. You can compensate with Leica's by getting a viewfinder magnifier. The major issue with long lenses and with rangefinders is that the longer the lens, the harder it is to focus.
Its the result of having the viewfinder—what you look through to compose the photo—and the lens offset by some distance. ParallaxParallax is an attribute of all rangefinder cameras. I don't know how many shots of the inside my lens caps I've taken! With this camera, it becomes far more important to follow a habitual procedure for taking photos.
Also, if you want to use a polarizer, you're pretty much stuck with the Mamiya one. Filter useAlso, you really can't use gradient filters with a rangefinder, since it's impossible to judge the placement of the filter transition area relative to the scene your shooting without TTL viewing. That doesn't do a thing for the near-far placement problem, though. The Mamiya 7 has some parallax compensation in that focusing will cause the bright lines to shift to show you the adjusted composition. It's just something to bear in mind when using rangefinder cameras. The offset is more an issue the closer the object being photographed is to you, although be careful to realize that a foreground object's relative position to a distant background object will be offset by this, too.
Lenses of spectacular quality, each one is close to the best of any format. It works fine and only costs about $20. I tend to use 4x4 gels or resin filters with a cheap holder that grips the lens with a big rubber band. If you prefer (or already have) glass screw-in filters, you'd probably be best off with a step-up ring. The filter threads are either 67mm or 58mm. Otherwise, most filters aren't so much of an issue.
The M7-II is 2.6 lbs for body and 80mm lens, but the RB67 ProSD weighs nearly 6 lbs with 127mm lens, and about 4 ¾ lbs for the Pentax 67II with 105mm lens and pentaprism. Smaller and lighter than a 6x7 medium format SLR. Bright view finder, but see Quirk #5 below. It is much quieter than even the Leica M cameras. Super quiet shutter release due to the leaf shutter. Even better, try to rent one and see for yourself.
I almost always use my external Pentax spot meter for exposure metering, since I'm used to it. That means that for the super-wide 43mm lens the meter is almost a spot meter, and with the 150mm lens it is a full frame averaging meter. The built-in light meter is heavily center weighted, but the metered area varies in size with he focal length of the lens attached.
You have to manually close the shutter curtain, remove the lens, replace it, and release the shutter curtain. The biggest disadvantage of the leaf shutter is that lens changes can be a bit cumbersome. I have not had this issue when using only one type of film (I use Tri-X, mostly). I think it was due to mixing filmTypes & trying to use a Fuji reel for Kodak film or maybe vice versa.Never spoke to anyone else who had this happen, so it's probably justMe. I had some problems early on with film take-up not winding tightly byThe time I got to the end of the roll.
If you take photographs in temperatures below about 20F (-7C) for extended periods of time, I recommendExternal battery holder. For 220 film, which has two registration marks,Use the second, solid line one (same as the 120 mark), not the dotted line, The thing to remember about film loading is to line up the registrationMarks on the film leader—the advance lever will be at about half-way through it's second or third full strokeAt this point—then, close the back, and wind the film advance lever until it stops (whenThe counter reaches '1').
The viewfinder is polarized, so you may not be able to see through the viewfinder withPolarized sunglasses on (but why would you be phtoographing with sunglasses on?).
0 kommentar(er)
